Marine Trailer Maintenance
And Proper Use
Boat
Trailer Maintenance Is Critical In The Marine Environment
Here’s what to do:
Wash
your trailer after each use, especially if it was in saltwater.
Do this every time! Rinse every part of the trailer with
fresh water, especially the suspension and behind the wheels.
Flush out the brakes if your trailer equipped with a flush kit.
Saltwater is very corrosive.
The sure things in life are: death, taxes and trailer
corrosion. Rinsing will greatly prolong your trailer’s
life.
Protect your tailer hardware with Corrosion X spray
(available at some boating stores.) Spray the nuts, bolts,
leaf-springs, winch gears and all other hardware items.
Use tie down straps. These inexpensive ratchet-type straps
help secure your boat to the trailer. Wal-Mart and Home
Depot have great prices on tie-downs. Every boat should be
secured with several. Tie down the transom and the bow (even
if your winch strap is already connected.) Your winch strap
is not a tie down strap. I was surprised that my boat towed
better with the straps than without. Keep an eye on the
news. You regularly see boats that have fallen off their
trailers and onto the freeway. It’s amazing.
Grease bearings. Do this every couple of weeks.
Remove the hub cover. Locate the "Zirc" grease
fitting--it's the "nipple" that fits into the femaie end
of a grease gun. Squeeze grease from the gun until bearing
are full (but not too full.)
My dealer recommended using heavy duty DISC BRAKE grease on
the trailer. Others have suggested using heavy duty marine
grease. It’s important that the grease doesn’t degrade
in water. Try out Kendall Super Blue grease.
Feel your hubs for excess heat when traveling. They
should not feel any hotter than a cup of coffee.
Use Bearing Buddies or other such bearing-saving devices.
Milky grease is a sign that it has been compromised by
water. If this happens, repack all bearings.
Repack wheel bearings every six month as part of scheduled
maintence. They can be repacked annually if you use a
bearing saving device such as Bearing Buddies.
Lubricate your lug nuts/posts so that you will be able to
loosen them to change tires. This is especially important if
you are fixing a flat by the side of the road. Lug nuts tend
to rust easily. Use "Never Seize" grease,
Boeshield T-9 or frequent applications of WD-40, penetrating oil
or silicone spray. Replace steel lug nuts with stainless
steel.
Check your tire pressure. Trailer tires are different from
car/truck tires. Check the tire sidewall for correct
pressure (usually 50-65 psi.)
Check your tire tread. Use the penny test by inserting a penny
into the tread. The tread should touch the top of Abe
Lincoln’s head.
Check the lights. Have someone depress the brake pedal and
use the turn signal while you stand behind the vehicle and ensure
the correct lights illuminate.
Check fastners and all trailer hardware to make sure
they're tight.
Use safety chains correctly. Chris-cross the chains below
the tongue. Position the hooks to your tow vehicle in such a
way that they won't easily "boune off." Even
better, use a closed-end fastner.
Do not put too much weight on the trailer. Gear can add a
lot of weight - even if your boat can handle all of the gear, look
at the weight rating on your trailer and do not exceed the maximum
weight.
If you are storing your boat be sure to block and cover your
trailer tires. Remember rubber degrades when exposed to
sunlight and also rots when exposed to the ground. You may
wish to shade your tires. Moving your trailer periodically
or jacking your trailer off the ground will help reduce dry
rotting of your tires.
As you do with your car, carry emergency equipment for your
trailer. Make a trailer emergency kit that
contains a spare wheel and tire, lug wrench, wheel chocks, bearing
grease, extra hub assembly, extra line (for the winch and tie-down
straps), replacement light bulbs, wheel bearings and road
flares/markers.
COUPLER
There are generally two types of couplers. One, the lever
type is currently being used in production. It has a lever
on top of the coupler that engages the pawl & secures the
trailer to the hitch ball. The second type of coupler is a
hand-wheel type. On the top of this coupler is a small
hand-wheel that is turned to engage / disengage the trailer from
the hitch ball.
1. Visually inspect hitch, ball and coupler for signs of
wear or damage. Replace any parts that are worn
or damaged before towing.
2. Be sure the coupler is secured to the hitch ball and the
lock lever or hand wheel is down and tight and locked. Clamp
hand wheel couplers hand tight only. When properly
engaged, the tongue jack will not be able to lift the trailer off
of the hitch ball.
3. Verify that the ball is properly inside the coupler and
the coupler is not sitting on top of the ball.
CAUTION. Use only the ball diameter indicated on your coupler -
any other ball diameter will create an extremely dangerous
condition that may result in separation from the coupler or ball
failure.
4. Secure the safety chains. Chris-cross the safety
chains under the tongue and then securely attach the S-hooks to
the tow vehicle.
5. Recheck tightness after initial 50 miles.
NOTE. When attached, your boat and tow vehicle should be
parallel to the road surface. It you have questions
concerning the load, see your dealer.
TONGUE JACK
1. Before each use, check jack for grease. Grease as
necessary with wheel bearing grease.
2. Ensure that the jack is completely raised before towing.
If your trailer is equipped with a swivel jack, make sure that the
swivel jack is in the folded position - jack parallel to the
trailer tongue.
CAUTION. When placing a swivel jack in the down position
(positioned to support the weight of the tongue) ensure the swivel
pin is engaged BEFORE adding weight to the jack or removing the
trailer from the tow vehicle. Not verifying that the swivel
jack pin is engaged could cause the jack to collapse under the
weight of the tongue.
WINCH ASSEMBLY
1. Visually check the strap, rope, or cable and hook before
each use. Never use any strap, rope or cable that is worn,
damaged, frayed or kinked. Replace with parts from your
authorized Magic Tilt parts dealer.
2. Make sure the winch strap is securely attached to the
boat’s bow eye.
NOTE. The winch / winch strap is not designed to be the only
line securing a boat to a trailer while towing. Tie-down
straps (bow eye and transom) must be used to properly secure your
boat while towing.
CAUTION. Failure to properly secure your boat with tie down straps
can cause damage to your boat trailer, boat and boat contents.
In addition, an improperly secured boat can create a dangerous
road condition. In many states, towing a boat without tie
down straps is illegal. See your dealer to get the proper
tie down straps and learn their correct use.
WHEELS AND HUBS
Lug nuts
1. Check for loose or missing lug nuts & tighten all lug
nuts to 85 foot-pounds. Replace any damaged or missing lug
nuts. Use the correct size wrench when tightening lug nuts.
2. When on a trip, visually check the wheel hubs each time
you stop.
CAUTION. The following are signs of bearing failure or other
wheel problems:a) Bearing grease splattered on the
rim. This could be a sign of rear seal failure,
bearing lock-up or loss of grease in the bearing.b) Smoke
from a wheel. This could indicate a dragging tire (possible
brake lock-up).If you experience any of these problems, stop your
vehicle in a safe, secure area. You should immediately
contact your dealer, a local trailer repair facility or the
nearest automotive repair facility. Continuing to operate
your trailer can cause damage to your trailer and your boat and
creates an unsafe driving condition.
WARNING. Maintain proper torque on lug nuts. Failure to do
so may cause serious injury or damage.
Hubs
1. Perform visual inspection of hub, bearing buddy
(optional) and bearing protector or grease cap. If any parts
are damaged or missing replace before towing your trailer.
2. If equipped with buddy bearings or posi-lube spindles,
apply grease if needed (see procedure in Maintenance Procedures).
WARNING. Keep wheel bearings properly lubricated and in good
condition. Failure to do so may cause bearing failure and possible
wheel loss resulting in serious injury and / or property damage.
TIRES
1. Always check tire pressure prior to each use (when tire
is cold). The proper tire pressure is listed on the tire
sidewall. Please realize that trailer tires often require a
higher tire pressure than the tow vehicle.
WARNING. Keep tires properly inflated. Failure to
maintain correct pressure may result in tire wear, tire failure
and loss of control resulting in serious injury or property
damage.
2. Ensure that tire treads are visible and there are no
slick surfaces on the tires. The penny can be used to verify
remaining tread. Insert a penny into the tread, if Abe
Lincoln’s head is not touched by the top of the tread, there is
not enough tread life on the tires replace the tires before towing
your trailer.
WARNING. If your tires have bubbles, deep cracks, insufficient
tread or show signs of tread separation DO NOT OPERATE YOUR
TRAILER until replacing all defective tires.
BRAKES
Brake System (general)
1. Before each use check brake fluid in reservoir on brake
actuator. Refill as necessary using DOT 3 heavy-duty brake fluid
to 3/8 inch below the top of the reservoir.
2. If your trailer is equipped with disc brakes, ensure that
the solenoid wire is securely attached to the tow vehicle’s
brake wire. The trailer’s solenoid wire is a separate wire
at the front of the trailer (near the actuator). You need to
attach this wire to a wire from the tow vehicle. The wire
from the tow vehicle operates off of the tow vehicle’s reverse
lights. When you put the tow vehicle in reverse, the power
that illuminates the tow vehicle’s reverse lights also applies
power to the solenoid (releasing the brakes). Improperly (or
not) engaging the reverse solenoid will result in brakes locking
while backing-up the trailer and could cause damage to your
trailer and your tow vehicle.
3. Immediately after hook-up, always test and confirm that
trailer brakes are operating properly before attaining normal road
speed.
NOTE. To prolong the life of your brakes: after you back up
your trailer to park the trailer --ease forward approximately two
inches. This will pull the actuator forward, relieving the
pressure on the brake components
ELECTRICAL
Lights
1. Ensure both the wire harness connector from the tow
vehicle and from the trailer are free of debris and water.
2. Verify that the white ground wire on the trailer is
securely attached to the trailer frame.
3. If your trailer lights have an independent grounding
circuit, verify the grounds from the trailer lights are securely
attached to the trailer frame.
4. Properly secure the wire harness from the trailer to the
wire harness connection from the tow vehicle.
5. Check to ensure the brake and turn signal lights
correctly illuminate.
6. Check for burned out or broken bulbs, cracked or broken
lenses, etc. Replace any non-working or damaged parts through your
Magic Tilt dealer. A small amount of electrical socket
grease on plug contacts and light bulb bases can be used to
prevent rust and corrosion.
NOTE. Disconnecting the wire harness connections prior to
submerging the trailer may reduce the risk of light bulb
failure,fuse failure or other electrical problems.
WARNING. Operating a trailer without working lights is both
dangerous and illegal. Always ensure your lights are working
before taking your trailer on the road.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
OVERALL - GENERAL APPEARANCE / GENERAL CARE
Freshwater wash
Your trailer will look better and last longer if you wash it off
with fresh water several times a year. If you boat in salt
water, rinse the trailer thoroughly after each use.
COUPLER
Ensuring a proper fit
1. When engaged the coupler should not rattle against the
hitch ball.
2. Adjusting the fit
- Hand-wheel type couplers are adjusted by
turning the hand-wheel.
- Lever-type couplers should never need
adjustment provided that you are using the correct hitch
ball. Only a dealer should attempt to adjust a lever-type
coupler.
Lubricating mechanism
1. Prior to using your trailer, apply a light coating of
bearing grease to hitch ball.
2. Engage the hitch ball and the coupler.
3. Tow your trailer to ensure grease adheres to all surfaces
NOTE. When parking or storing your trailer, keep the coupler off
the ground so debris will not build up in the ball socket.
WARNING. When jacking up the trailer, ensure that all wheels
are blocked in both the forward and reverse directions.
Failure to block the wheels can result in personal and property
damage.
TONGUE JACK
Grease jack
Some tongue jacks have a small ZERK fitting. ZERK fittings
allow you to easily use a grease gun to lubricate the part.
If your tongue jack has a ZERK fitting:
1. Ensure your grease gun has wheel bearing grease (or
equivalent).
2. Secure grease gun to ZERK fitting.
3. Pump grease until grease comes out of the jack - usually
excess will come out of the bottom of the jack.
4. Crank jack between completely up and completely down
several times to allow grease to adhere to all surfaces.
If your jack does not have a ZERK fitting:
1. Remove the black plastic cap on top of the jack.
The cap is usually secured by a small set screw on the side of the
jack.
2. Push grease into opening on top of tongue jack.
Reapply cap and secure with set screw.
3. Crank jack between completely up and completely down
several times to allow grease to adhere to all surfaces.
With swivel jacks.
In addition to the procedure for applying grease to the jack, you
should lubricate the swivel surfaces.
1. Apply a light coating of penetrating oil (such as WD-40)
on and around the swivel surface.
WARNING. Special care must always be exercised when
engaging or disengaging a swivel jack. When removing your
trailer from the tow vehicle always check that the swivel jack is
engaged before allowing the jack to support the weight of the
trailer.
WINCH ASSEMBLY
Oil gears
1. Verify the winch assembly is free of dirt and debris.
2. Apply a light coating of household oil (e.g. 3-in-1 oil)
on the gears only.
3. Operate the winch to ensure proper adhesion of oil onto
all gear surfaces.
Inspect strap, cable, rope
You should inspect your winch strap, cable or rope every time you
launch and recover your boat. Stowing your winch strap,
cable or rope evenly and neatly will also extend its useful life.
1. Verify the bow eye hook is secure to the strap, rope or
cable. If necessary, re-tie bow eye hook to the rope.
2. Completely extend the rope, cable or nylon strap.
3. Check the entire length of winch strap, cable or rope for
cuts, burrs, rust, tears or any other damage that would degrade
the performance of the securing strap. Replace as necessary.
4. Ensure the end of the strap is secure to the winch
assembly.
5. Rewind the winch.
WHEELS AND HUBS
Check lug nuts
1. Before each use, check torque on all lug nuts. With
trailer wheels blocked to eliminate the chance for accidental
movement, tighten each lug nut to 85 foot-pounds.
2. If replacement nut/nuts are required, ensure you replace
with the correct size and type.
Grease bearings
There are three widely available types of bearing covers.
Some trailers have a cap (painted or galvanized) on the end of the
hub that protects the bearings. To add grease to this hub
assembly, you must disassemble the hub. With this system, a
semi-annual inspection and repacking the bearings is recommended.
The second type of bearing system is a Posi-Lube spindle. On
the end of the spindle is a small ZERK fitting which allows grease
to enter the spindle and get routed to the bearing surfaces.
To lubricate this bearing, perform the following steps:
1. Remove the dust cap from the hub exposing the ZERK
fitting.
2. Using bearing grease, secure the grease gun to the posi-lube
ZERK fitting.
3. Gently add grease.
4. When grease comes out around the outer edge of the
bearing, stop pumping grease.
5. Reapply the dust cover.
The third type uses Bearing Buddies to easy lubrication of the
bearing assembly. Bearing Buddies keep a positive pressure
of grease on the bearings limiting the potential intrusion of
water and debris into the bearing assembly. To correctly
lubricate a bearing equipped with Bearing Buddies, complete the
following steps:
1. Remove the protective bearing cover from the hub exposing
the Bearing Buddy.
2. Attach a grease gun (with bearing grease) to the ZERK
fitting at the center of the Bearing Buddy.
3. Gently add grease.
4. When the center plate of the Bearing Buddy starts
traveling forward, stop adding grease. With experience, you
will be able to feel the additional pressure against the grease
gun when the Bearing Buddies are close to being filled.
NOTE. If your trailer is not equipped with Bearing Buddies,
you can purchase these components at your dealer. Never
apply Bearing Buddies over Posi - Lube Spindles. The two
systems are not compatible when used together.
CAUTION. Never use a pneumatic grease gun. The
force of the grease gun can damage or destroy the rear seal.
If your rear seal is damaged you must get it repaired before using
the trailer. Even without a pneumatic grease gun, too much
pressure could damage the rear seal.
WARNING. If you destroy the back seal of the hub assembly
and havedrum brakes. The grease can enter the brakes and
erode the performance of your brakes.
Repacking bearings
At least once a year when equipped with Buddy Bearings or Posi-Lube
spindles (and semi-annually when these lubrication systems are not
installed) your trailer should have the bearings repacked by your
dealer. Your dealer will perform the following:
1. Remove the tire.
2. Remove the dust cover or cap from the hub.
3. If present, remove the Buddy Bearing.
4. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle.
5. If equipped with a tang washer (some torsion axles and
posi-lube spindles), bend the ears of the washer and remove.
CAUTION. Never re - use a tang washer. Never use
anything but an actual tang washer. Reusing the tang washer
or using a part other than a tang washer can cause the wheel to
become separated from your trailer. This could cause serious
property and personal damage.
6. Back off the axle nut (the large nut on the threaded
spindle).
7. Remove the hub assembly from the axle.
8. Disassemble the seals and bearings in the hub assembly.
9. Carefully clean the bearings and hub with mineral spirits
(or other parts cleaning liquid).
10. Clean the spindle where the hub is seated on the axle.
11. Perform a careful visual inspection of the spindle face,
bearings, hub compartment. If you notice any cracks, scoring
or voids, replace the damage part. If metal shavings are
evident in the grease, replace all bearings and seals. Magic
Tilt strongly recommends replacement of bearings at this same
time.
12. Replace (do not reuse) grease seal.
13. Reassemble hub assembly with repacked bearings. Grease
should be applied liberally to all surfaces.
14. Place hub on spindle and secure with axle nut. While
making sure that the bearings properly seat, never over-tighten
axle nut.
15. Insert new cotter pin or new tang washer. Do not reuse
either cotter keys or tang washers. Bend securing device to
lock axle nut.
WARNING. By failing to use or improperly using an axle nut
securing device (cotter pin or tang washer) you jeopardize your
property, your safety and the safety of others. Always
ensure that cotter pins or tang washers have been properly
applied.
16. Re-apply Bearing Buddy and protective bearing cover.
17. Secure tire to wheel (with 85 ft-lbs of torque per lug
nut). Tire should spin but not wobble when bearings have
been properly packed.
This procedure may have to be slightly modified if the trailer is
equipped with brakes.
TIRES
WARNING. Keep tires properly inflated. Failure to
maintain correct pressure will result in tire wear, potential tire
failure and possible loss of control of your trailer.
Improperly maintaining tire pressure will void your warranty but
more importantly creates a very dangerous road condition.
NOTE. The most common cause of tire wear and tire problems
is under inflation. Verify the tire manufacturer’s
requirements by reading the tire sidewall. Even tires of the
same size can have different recommended tire pressures.
Always check tire pressure prior to each use (when tires are
cold).
For tire maintenance remember the acronym PART:
Pressure: Under inflation is a tire’s #1 enemy. It results
in unnecessary tire stress, irregular wear, loss of control and
accidents. A tire can lose up to half of its air pressure
and not appear to be flat. Tires do allow for some leakage
of air to occur, especially when stored for extended periods of
time.
Alignment: is your vehicle pulling to one side or shaking? A
bad jolt from hitting a curb or pothole can put your vehicle out
of alignment and damage your tires. Check your alignment
periodically to ensure your vehicle is properly aligned.
Rotation: promotes uniform tire wear - only required on very large
trailers.
Tread: measure it and inspect it. Advanced and unusual wear
can reduce the ability of tread to grip the road in adverse
conditions. Visually check your tires for uneven wear,
looking for high and low areas or unusually smooth areas.
For most trailer tires, Magic Tilt recommends replacement at least
every five years.
CAUTION. Driving your vehicle in an overloaded condition is
dangerous. This can cause excessive heat to build up in your
tires. This can lead to sudden tire failure and/or serious
personal injury.
BRAKES
Checking brake fluid
1. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap on top of the
actuator.
2. Refill as necessary using DOT 3 heavy-duty brake fluid to
3/8 inch below the top of the reservoir.
3. Reapply cap.
CAUTION. Brakes directly affect the safety of your vehicle
and everyone else on the road. No one should attempt brake
adjustment, replacement or repair of brake components if they have
not been trained in the repair and maintenance of braking systems.
WARNING. Allowing your brake system to run low of brake
fluid – or using fluids other than brake fluid - could degrade
the brake performance and possibly lead to a dangerous road
condition.
Check line connections
1. With your boat removed from your trailer, trace your
brake line from the actuator to all brake clusters.
2. Verify that the brake line does not have cracks,
abrasions or holes. Replace components as necessary.
3. Verify all brake line connectors are secure and not
leaking. Replace as necessary.
4. If you have had to replace line and / or connections, you
must have your dealer refill the brake fluid and properly bleed
your brakes.
WARNING. Improperly bleeding brakes could cause air to be
trapped inside the brake line. This air could significantly
erode brake performance or even render your brakes inoperative.
Freshwater flush (Drum Brakes Only)
Freshwater flush is only for trailers with drum brakes installed
with a flush kit. Drum brakes without a flush kit cannot use
this procedure.
1. Secure the male adapter from a standard garden hose to
the female adapter located on the trailer frame.
2. Gently apply freshwater. You should only apply a
very gentle stream of water as more vigorous washing will not aid
in removing the salt and debris from the braking system. Too
much water pressure can cause the flush kit connectors to separate
and render the flushing system inoperative.
Verify actuator travel
Your actuator operates like a piston. When fully extended it
does not apply pressure to the brake fluid. When your
vehicle slows, the actuator is pressed in (toward the rear of the
trailer) and applies pressure to the brake fluid. The fluid
in turn causes the brakes to engage. Any item or debris that
hinders the travel of the actuator diminishes the effectiveness of
your brakes.
1. Annually have your dealer verify the distance over which
your actuator travels between fully extended and fully engaged.
2. Your dealer will compare this travel distance to
information in your brake owner’s manual or published brake
system operating characteristics.
3. Your dealer may also apply a lightweight oil to inhibit
rust from accumulating on the actuator.
Adjust brakes (Drum Brakes)
Brake adjustments should only be done by a qualified mechanic.
Magic Tilt strongly encourages you to return to the dealer where
you purchased your boat, trailer and engine. Only this
dealer understands the unique nature of your boating equipment as
well as the local road conditions.
WARNING. Failure to complete brake adjustments correctly can
result in diminished or loss of braking. Brakes adjusted too
tightly can cause premature failure of the brakes. Any
maladjustment can lead to property and / or personal damage.
Correct the adjustment of your drum brakes after the first 50
miles of operation, again after another 300 miles and then every
600 miles. Regardless of the amount of miles you put on your
trailer, Magic Tilt recommends a drum brake adjustment at least
annually.
Adjust each wheel brake assembly separately. To perform this
maintenance, the mechanic will have to safely jack up your
trailer. When scheduling your service appointment, you may
wish to ask the mechanic whether they can remove your boat from
the trailer or if you will have to make arrangements to have the
boat taken off the trailer.
To complete this adjustment, the mechanic will do the following:
1. Locate the brake adjustor - behind slot at bottom of the
back side of each backing plate.
2. Tighten adjustor with brake adjustment tool until you
cannot rotate the wheel by hand.
3. Caution, only rotate the drum forward.
4. Back off the adjustment ten notches (or ten clicks).
Adjust brakes (Disc Brakes)
1. There is not an adjustment procedure for disc brakes. If
you suspect brake problems, take your trailer to your dealer
immediately.
Checking pads, rotors, master cylinder
Annually, you should ask a mechanic to complete a visual
inspection of your brakes. They will complete many of the
same steps used to adjust your brakes, plus:
1. Visually inspect all components, looking for uneven
wearing, cracking, warping or corrosion.
2. With brake pads, your dealer will recommend replacing the
pads when they are approximately 1/8” thick or less (new pads
are usually 3/8 inch thick).
3. If your dealer discovers bent rotors, inoperable master
cylinders or other defective parts, the dealer will replace those
parts.
4. At the conclusion of the inspection, the dealer will
reassemble the brake system, fill the system with approved brake
fluid, verify there are no leaks and bleed the braking system.
ELECTRICAL
Check tail lights / brake lights / verifying ground
1. Before attaching the wire harness from the trailer to the
wire harness from the tow vehicle, trace the wiring system from
the tow vehicle to the trailer and back. Look for bare
wires, cracked or chafed insulation and corroded or rusted
terminals.
2. While tracing the system, verify the white ground wire is
connected to the trailer frame. Your tail lights may have an
independent grounding system (evident from a short white wire from
the tail light assembly). Verify that this wire is also
securely attached to the trailer frame.
3. Replace any wires, wire harnesses or securing screws that
are damaged, worn or missing.
4. Attach the wiring harness from the tow vehicle to the
trailer. If equipped with disc brakes, also attach the
single wire for the reverse lock-out solenoid.
5. Have another person depress the brake pedal and the turn
signals while you remain behind the trailer and verify that the
correct lights illuminate on both the trailer and the tow vehicle.
NOTE. It is a good practice to activate your tow vehicles
emergency flashers whenever backing your trailer. This will
cause your rear lights on your trailer to illuminate.
6. On trailers equipped with disc brakes - to verify the
reverse solenoid works correctly, gently back the trailer.
7. Replace cracked, damaged or poorly illuminating bulbs.
Replace crack, work or defective light shields and light covers.
Some tail lights have a removable insert that can be removed
through the bottom of the tail light. With these tail
lights, you do not have to remove the lens cover to gain access to
the tail light bulbs or their sockets.
8. A small amount of electrical socket grease on plug
contacts and light bulb bases will help prevent rust and
corrosion.
WINTERIZATION PROCEDURES
STORING YOUR TRAILER
1. Park in a protected area such as garage, carport, etc.
If you cannot park in a protected area, cover your trailer with a
boat cover or tarp.
2. Repack wheel bearings to remove any lingering water or
debris.
NOTE. If water stands on bearing surfaces for as short a time as
several weeks without the wheel being turned, rust and bearing
damage will begin. Before storing the trailer for prolonged
periods, bearings should be re-packed.
3. Lubricate moving parts such as rollers, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
4. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.
5. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the
tires do not come in contact with the ground. If your boat
and trailer are not protected in a car port, garage or with a boat
cover, you should still cover the tires to protect against
ultra-violet rays.
6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the
completely closed position.
REMOVING YOUR TRAILER FROM STORAGE
1. Apply lightweight oil to winch gears.
2. Verify tightness of lug nuts.
3. Check air pressure in tires.
4. Check tread and general appearance of tires.
5. Verify brake fluid levels.
6. Check brake line for signs of rot or damage and
replace as necessary.
7. Complete a full electrical check (as defined
previously).
8. If equipped with Buddy Bearings or Posi-Lube
spindles, apply additional grease.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TRAILER
Boat loading - boat is difficult to load
1. Verify that your trailer is partially submerged.
You should not be using your winch to forcefully pull your boat
onto your trailer.
2. Check for obstructions on your boat (hull or equipment).
3. Check for obstructions on your trailer.
4. See your dealer - they may be able to adjust your trailer
for your unique boating needs.
Boat unloading - boat is difficult to unload
1. Verify that your trailer is partially submerged - your
boat should partially float off your trailer.
2. Verify you have unhooked winch strap and tie-down straps.
3. Verify your motor is not impacting the ramp and / or
ground.
4. See your dealer - they may be able to adjust your trailer
for your unique boating needs.
Overweight - trailer is overloaded
NOTE. Please pay careful attention to the selection of your boat
motor and auxiliary equipment. Today’s larger horsepower
motors have greatly increased the weight placed on the boat’s
transom. In addition, larger fuel and water tanks, trolling
motors, extra batteries and tee tops add considerable weight.
1. Remove excess gear while towing your boat
2. Verify that the hull is structurally sound as this may be
the first sign that the water has entered into the hull lining or
is trapped in one of the holds.
3. Contact your dealer. Your dealer will work with
Magic Tilt to determine if you trailer can be modified (with
larger axles, different tires) to accommodate your unique needs.
COUPLER
Improper coupler fit
1. Verify the hitch ball and coupler are the same
size.
2. Verify the coupler is free from debris.
3. Verify that the hitch ball is securely fastened to
the tow vehicle.
4. For hand-wheel coupler only, verify operation of
hand-wheel and attached pawl.
5. See your dealer - You should not attempt additional
adjustments to the hitch.
WINCH
Fails to operate
1. Verify handle is securely fasten to winch and engaged.
2. Extend cable, rope or strap completely and verify that it
is securely fastened to the winch barrel.
3. Visually inspect gears for signs of wear and replace
gears as necessary.
WHEELS / HUBS
Excessive heat
Note. You should never attempt to touch any vehicles hubs - all
hubs get warm during operation. Only test with an
appropriate tester (e.g. temple stick).
After the hub has cooled:
1. Try adding grease via Posi-Lube or Buddy Bearing.
2. Verify brake fluid levels.
3. Verify reverse solenoid (if equipped with disc brakes) is
properly secured.
4. Have your dealer inspect and repack your bearings.
5. Have your dealer verify your brake adjustment.
Free spinning / cross-threaded / damaged lugs.
1. Have your dealer replace damaged lugs and lug nuts.
TIRES
Tire wear / Uneven tire wear
1. Check tire pressure.
2. Check to see if an object (such as the fender) is
rubbing against the tire when the boat is on the
trailer.
3. Check to see that the hubs do not have excessive
wobble. This could indicate improperly packed hubs or wear on hub
components.
4. Check trailer capacity versus towing load.
5. Check trailer alignment.
BRAKES
WARNING. Brake maintenance should only be accomplished by a
trained mechanic. Improper adjustment repair or maintenance
voids the manufacturer’s warranty and may cause serious personal
and property damage.
Lock-up
· See your dealer immediately. Your dealer will investigate
whether the problem has been caused by:
a. low fluid and air in the system - replace fluid and
bleed system.
b. actuator malfunction - repair or replace actuator.
c. cylinder malfunction - replace defective cylinders.
d. individual component damage - repair or replace as
needed.
e. inadvertent backing without the reverse lockout
solenoid hooked up - repair or replace as needed.
Poor brake performance.
· See your dealer immediately. Your dealer will investigate
whether the problem has been caused by:
a. brakes out of adjustment - adjust brakes.
b. foreign material in brake line - flush and clean
thoroughly, re-bleed system.
c. low fluid level - fill and bleed brakes to
eliminate any trapped air.
d. broken or pinched brake lines - replace or repair
as required.
e. actuator malfunction - repair or replace actuator.
f. residual pressure in brake line - the older
hydraulic drum brake systems required that 10-12 psi residual
pressure be maintained in order to keep the wheel cylinder piston
seals seated. To accomplish this, many surge brake actuators
have a small diaphragm type check valve installed just inside of
master cylinder output port.
Unable to back-up (disc brakes). Reverse solenoid valve is
inoperative.
1. Check connection to tow vehicle back-up light circuit.
Connection should be free from dirt, water and debris.
2. Check trailer ground connection (do not depend on hitch
ball connection to provide ground). Trailer should have
dedicated ground wire (white) connected to grounding screw.
3. Check tow vehicle back-up light circuit. You should
be able to hear a ‘click’ when 12 v. DC is applied to lead
wire.
ELECTRICAL
Lights don’t work
1. Verify wire harnesses are free of dirt, debris and water
and are properly attached. Verify that the two harnesses
properly mate - are the same type.
2. Check vehicle, that towing vehicle lights work
3. Check ground on trailer and and ground on tail lights (if
equipped with separate tail light ground circuit).
4. Look for any pinched, frays or cut wires and replace as
necessary. Before replacing, disconnect the trailer from the
tow vehicle and verify that there is no charge in the trailer
circuitry.
5. Check bulbs and replace as necessary. Many trailers
are equipped with snap-out inserts. These inserts allow you
to easily access the bulbs by removing the insert.
What
To Do Before Towing A Boat
1. Coupler securely engages your hitch.
2. Safety chains are safely secured to trailer and tow
vehicle in a chris-cross fashion under the tongue.
3. Jack is fully cranked up.
4. All fasteners / bolts are properly tightened.
Pay particular attention to the lug nuts (tightened to 85 ft-lbs).
5. Boat is securely tied down with tie-down straps.
Your winch strap is not a tie-down strap. A winch controls
your boat in a horizontal direction. Tie-downs control your
boat in the vertical direction. You must have bow-eye and
transom tie down straps securely attached whenever the trailer is
in use.
6. Tires are properly inflated- read the tire
sidewall to determine the correct tire pressure required.
This rating will be different than your tow vehicle. Also
check for tire wear, cracks, bubbles or foreign objects imbedded
in the tire. Bias ply trailers are not designed for speeds
in excess of 65 mph.
7. Brake lights and other trailer lights are working.
8. If the trailer is equipped with brakes, make sure
they are functioning by lightly testing before getting on a major
road